Six travel mistakes I've made this summer

In Oslo's Vigeland Park

I know.  LLMW does not make mistakes...aghast...but she really does...and bad ones sometimes too.  Just because you have a lot of knowledge does not mean you know everything...plus, you sometimes forget or are lazy or just don't know any better.  I made this site not only to help others but to have others help me!  So before you laugh and get a kick out of that, see what I did that was less than perfect as we all tend to do.

I planned and arranged a trip to Oslo.  Because this city will make even the richest person feel poor and have an empty wallet before it's over, I thought I would save and get a hotel outside the city center.  That part was just fine...we saved literally THOUSANDS of euro, and it was a luxury hotel to boot, mysteriously being upgraded to a business suite with two rooms, two bathrooms and a wonderful buffet breakfast (boy, did I score brownie points for that one).

Sure, I saw that it was on the main metro ring with connections every minute and only six stops from downtown, and certainly wasn't worried about us getting around.  I planned how easily we would get there (no problems actually), but I got LAZY and just assumed I would do the same thing on the way back for our early Ryanair airport bus.  Imagine that sinking feeling you get, when you get down to the metro platform at 0610 and see the first train comes only at 0649, only 11 minutes before you have to catch your paid-for bus back to the airport to catch that flight.  Oops, it was a Saturday with less metro connections.  Can you say "oh sh*t?!"

After a nanosecond, we raced back up to the hotel, had them call a taxi (which arrived in less than 5 minutes) and arrived in plenty of time for the bus.....but $40 poorer.  Lesson #1 learned, follow thru from beginning to end in trip planning, especially if you absolutely have to be somewhere at a certain time!  Also watch time schedules on holidays (know what they are for that country) and on weekends!

This summer I also had an ambitious notion that we would relax in a wonderful country cottage in the peaceful countryside in Normandy.  I had visions of us seeing the sites during the day and then viewing some wonderful countryside vistas driving back to our wonderful retreat.  I carefully researched many, many cottages, B&Bs and even a few chateaus.  Since my plan was VERY ambitious and it involved going in exactly two different directions (St Malo and the famous Mont St Michel vs. the Normandy Beaches), I thought I would split the difference and try to find something in between.  I found the ideal place in the most idyllic setting...on paper.  The first day was peaceful and relaxing after we finally arrived (that'll be my third mistake below).  Once we started visiting the sites, I realized my mistake.  Yes, it looked like only x amount of miles from this destination to that one on Google...but try to actually drive the winding and narrow country roads and you quickly realize it takes MUCH longer to drive them in person.  After two days of it taking us two hours to get somewhere and then two hours to get back at the end of the day, with me in a nauseous stupor, I came to the conclusion that we needed to pick one area OR the other and leave our pastoral place.

I chose a wonderful historic hotel near my beloved sites in Normandy (our main goal to see) and was then happy for the rest of the trip.  Even though the WWII battle sites and of course the many other sites along that part of the coast were spread out, we still spent no more than 45 minutes driving to any one site for the rest of the trip.  Don't remind me that I forfeited the rest of the money we had paid for the country cottage (I try not to think about that) and then had to shell out another 70 euros a day for our nice hotel room with no cooking facilities...but you know what?  I was happy and we all know what happens when momma isn't happy.  What's the lesson here?  There's Lesson #2.  Take the time to see what kinds of roads there are at your destination.  Take the time to really see how long it'll take you to drive everyday to see what you want to see and prioritize which direction you want to travel in!  You can't see everything!


Of course, also on this trip, our home had a slight issue that needed immediate attention.  Of course, it needed attention on the morning we were due to leave for our trip.  Doesn't it always happen this way?  After finally getting things taken care of, we hit the road at 0900.  I know I have mentioned before to check the German school holiday site and stau situation.  I also know the Belgian schedule from living here.  Why oh why did I not check the French schedule?  Can you say "bank holiday"?   I don't know.  I'm still wondering about that.  All I know is that we waited anywhere from 20 minutes to ONE HOUR at EVERY SINGLE TOLL BOOTH going thru France along our route.  It wouldn't have mattered if we had a "fast pass" either (which many Brits rent or buy to allow them to breeze thru the auto lanes).  The traffic was well backed up before all the lanes even decided to split.  This turned a four hour drive into an EIGHT HOUR drive!!!  Lesson #3, ALWAYS, ALWAYS...and then again...check the school holiday schedules for the countries you will be traveling through and to!

On one of our trips to a country with a different currency, a certain someone in my family suggested to use the rest of that currency to pay part of the hotel bill.  I hesitated...well, what if there is an emergency and we need some quick change?  Luckily, a last minute taxi ride that was NOT planned was payable by credit card.  I even tried to tip the driver in Euro, our home currency in Belgium, but he would not take it and kept telling us not to worry and to catch our flight.  He was such a nice man.  The amount I used in that foreign currency to pay part of the hotel bill would have paid the taxi driver almost EXACTLY...with enough left over for coffee...which I desperately needed at the airport and couldn't buy because I didn't have a foreign coin to my name.  Lesson #4, I think the peace-of-mind is worth it to keep at least some bills in that foreign currency...at least enough to pay a taxi or some other quick emergency!  With so many military families traveling all over, you can sell your currency, especially if you have bills, at a later date.


This summer has been unusually cold and rainy, from start to finish.  Yes, we packed plenty of shorts and swimsuits we didn't get to use, at least when we were outside for the most part.  We brought rain and cold weather to each of the four countries we vacationed in this summer.  We had more rain days than sun days.  You think I would've learned by the third trip at least to bring more warm clothing.  No, I was determined to pack pretty much the exact same things I had packed previously.  I ended up recycling my fleece pretty much every day and found out that the combo of fleece and a rainjacket on top can be pretty toasty.  Me and my fashion sense were non-existent.  Lesson #5, even in summer always have raingear AND something warm to wear...doubled...unless you don't mind wearing the same thing over and over again.  The good thing about fleece is that it rolls up very nicely in your suitcase and is very lightweight to boot!

In Amsterdam, we were in this wonderful little restaurant.  Now, you know that Europeans don't do doggie bags like we do doggie bags.  In fact, if it wasn't for the Americans running around in Europe, there would be NO doggie bags.  Europeans don't do them!  I always prepare myself for the errant look I get when asking if I can take my leftovers home.  I've been given newspaper, waxpaper and butcher paper to wrap my stuff up.  I've had stuff leak thru those flimsy wrappings, and it is not pretty.  My solution....is to ALWAYS carry a few ziploc bags of a few sizes...of the freezer variety due to their sturdiness.  I'm not going to tell you to do it, but if you want to make your kid...or you and the family a little sandwich from the breakfast buffet for later...I'm not going to tell you not to do it either.  Well, in making my list for the trip, I thought I'd be slick and download an Iphone app specifically for packing....I missed a key item in the transfer from paper to app....ziploc bags.  Not only did I not have it for my leftovers but I also didn't have it for the wet swimsuits or the opened bag of goldfish that wanted to jump out all inside my purse nor for the pile of receipts I like to keep in order til I get home.  Crap.  Lesson #6, travel with a few ziploc bags of various sizes.  You won't know what you will use them for ahead of time, but somewhere and somehow, you WILL end up needing them!

Of course I learned a few other lessons, but they are not worth the paper I would write them on, so I will end here.  Do you have any lessons learned from this summer?  Any summer?

Space A Magic

Visit http://www.baseops.net/spaceatravel/ for more Space A information!

I know for many of us, flying Space A is a big unknown.  I've only flown twice myself, as a military dependent many years ago.  We waited many days in Dover, Delaware trying to catch that perfect flight to Germany to visit my grandparents.  It's clear in my mind that we went to the terminal every day, only to be told there was no flight that day or that a previously scheduled flight was cancelled.  We made the best of it, enjoying the shore and some beach time and luckily, my parents had budgeted to stay in a hotel off post nearby.  We waited just about a week.  The flight we ended up taking was a military craft with the seats suspended inside.  So this is what the guts of a plane looks like I remember thinking.  But what sticks out the most in my mind was a mid-air refueling training mission (yes, they did warn us), and WOW, it was enough to make you think you were riding a roller coaster...up and down...up and down...enough to make you blow your lunch which the air crew handed out in little boxes a few hours before.  One of our readers, Jo recently flew Space A and offers these tips for us below.

The first and most important thing to remember is that Space-A is a privilege, not a right. If you aren't on an open schedule (meaning, come and go as you please) then it's VERY important to have a back-up plan).

Where are you trying to go? What is your closest AF Base that can get you there or somewhere you can transfer from? Some bases have regularly scheduled flights (ex: On Monday, Wednesday and Saturday there is a flight departing XX base, and it stops at YY and ZZ).

Visit this link to get an idea of where some of the bases' frequent stops are located.

Have all your valid and required paperwork to travel. Are you flying with or as a servicemember? They/You will need to be on leave before they can even 'register' for Space A. If you're flying and your spouse is currently deployed, you will need a letter from his CoC stating you are allowed to fly Space A while the servicemember is out in theater. This letter needs to include your information, along with any traveling dependents and your spouse's information as well.  You will also need to bring proof that you are command sponsored, meaning that you were included on his orders to his current duty station.  The S-1 or admin folks of your husband's unit can type that up for you.

REGISTER - Once you have an idea of where you would like to go, register with the bases that you may be flying out of. You can register in person, by fax or via email. Sign-Up email addresses can be found here.

If a servicemember is traveling, they CANNOT register until they are ON leave. The email you send needs to include leave start and end date. If you are traveling sans SM, scan and email a copy of your CoC issued travel letter. Email any and every base you may be using. Better to be safe than sorry. Registering early is important because if there are three Active Duty (AD) Category 3 personnel on leave trying to fly, the person who registered FIRST gets priority. Once you register, it is active for 90 days (or 60 days, so double check) so you won't need to register every single time you fly so long as it's within that timeframe.

You should receive a confirmation letting you know that you are registered. If you don't receive it in 24 hours, call the base. It's possible that they may have an incorrect email listed. Be proactive and don't make assumptions. Again, it's better to be safe than sorry.

All that squared away? Great! Now you're probably wondering "well, how do I know when the flight is?". Most bases do not provide a flight schedule earlier than 72 hours out. Some have automated answering services that give you a destination and how many tentative seats there are and a "showtime". Showtime is when you need to be checked in by. Continue to call everyday within that 72 hour gap to make sure the flight info is accurate. They are subject to change (this happened to us) and you could get stranded somewhere you didn't intend on staying.

Please pack a sweater or blanket in your carryon, especially if you are flying overnight. You won't know what type of aircraft you'll be on and a C-17 can get very cold. We shivered our entire trip to the east coast. Lesson learned for us.

Show up! Make sure you have your proper IDs, Passport (if going overseas), and bring your CoC issued letter or Leave form. Although you may have submitted it, keep it on you. I'd also print out a copy of any confirmation messages or emails you may have received showing your 'registration' date. Once you arrive at the AMC Terminal you will mark yourself' present' so they know you would like to take a flight out. Afterward, you'll wait until they call your name. This is done by category. If you are flying with an Active Duty (AD) servicemember, then you'll be category 3 and for the most part, you're at the head of the line. The only categories flying ahead of you are Emergency Leave or those on PCS orders.

Have a safe flight! flying Space-A may not be the most convenient in terms of time, secured seats or comfort but it's free! I'll deal with all of that vs paying an outwards of 1000K for a flight overseas.

Thanks so much Jo for your input.  Stay tuned where Jo will talk about her family's personal experience in an upcoming blogpost.  The only think I would add...and try to pound in your head, you absolutely have to be flexible and need to have the time to do this.  If you want to try to use it during the summer, I would definitely re-think that.  It is the heaviest PCS travel season, and you could be trying to get on a flight for days.  If you have the time and patience, go for it....if not, find an alternate means of travel.  I believe MAC flights also only take you to the first point of entry in the US.  You need to keep that in mind when planning the rest of your transportation to your final destination.  Will you grab a commercial flight the rest of the way?  Rent a car?  Have family come get you?  Have it all planned out including alternate ideas.  MAC flights may only get you so close, and the rest of the plan is yours to figure out.

Something interesting I have found when friends have traveled from Germany, is that every plane can be different.  Do you know the G5s have space sometimes?  Yes, I know it's a $50 million aircraft!  Yes, I recently read about a military wife who rode a G5 plane from Korea to the US....plush leather seats and personal service usually reserved for generals. How she snagged that, I don't know.  I owuld post the link with her happy smiling child...but I can't find it, sorry!  Coming out of Ramstein, be prepared for flights loaded with wounded going back stateside...some in fairly grave condition.  I had a friend who passed on one of those flights, because she was afraid to expose her children to so many injured soldiers.  I am not saying that was right or wrong, just something to think about when accepting a flight or not.  You may even have a flight with NO SEATS.  Yes, I had a friend fly on a military craft that didn't have any, and there must have been many veteran Space Aers on the flight, as they rolled out their sleeping bags and hung out using their pillows as luggage!

One more resource to throw your way, be sure to check out the AMC's Space A Facebook page.  It's a great resource and what a great way to get your questions answered should you have any.  If anyone has any other sites or stories to share, please do so below.  I would love to hear them!

The Ubiquitous German Stau and what to do about it!

After this past weekend, I realized I am spoiled.  I am spoiled because I live in a semi-rural area in Belgium where the biggest gridlock I see is trying to get into the front gate of the base....or perhaps on the dumb occasion I decide to drive to Brussels on the ringroad during rush hour.  Imagine my dismay when I saw the brake lights this past week on a German autobahn going South.  Oh crap, how could I totally forget the life of a German autobahn driver?   Ooops, I used to be so on top of this stuff when I lived here...out of sight out of mind I guess!  I read in this month's ADAC magazine (ADAC runs something similar to the American AAA motorists' program) that in 2010 there were 185,000 staus with a total length of 400,000 kilometer.  To put that in perspective, this length would get you to the moon at least!  And why all this stau stuff and what can you do to help yourself?

First of all, like many places in the world, we are building more cars than we have the capacity to handle.  Go to any Chinese city these days and see hosts of shiny blue BMWs and sleek Mercedes not moving instead of the ubiquotous bicycles that fanned across the nation just a few years ago.  The same is going on in Europe, in particular Germany that sits in the middle of everything.  There just isn't enough autobahn capacity to handle all the car traffic, period.  I also read that the German authorities are looking at widening the autobahn lanes, not by building yet another lane, but by using what's already there...the break down lanes.  Believe it or not, there are cameras all up and down the autobahns, and those folks watching these cameras can immediately see if there is a breakdown or other hinderance in that lane, and if it's clear for a certain stretch, lights would flash, letting drivers know that this is now an open lane.  Yes, that's the plan, and yes, they'd have to install that light system.  I have no idea when and if it will be implemented, so don't ask me.  I am just parroting what I just read the plan seems to be.  Of course they gave it a good solid German name too these "new lanes", "Temporaraere Seitenstreifenfreigabe" or just TSF for short.

So here we are back to the problem.  What can you do about these staus?  Honestly, there are a few things you can do before you ever hit the road. 

-Check Schulferien before you travel!  This site lists the various school holidays of German schoolkids by region.  The German states try to stagger their vacation time, so that not all German kids are streaming South or wherever they are going, all at the same time.  Nifty, huh?  Now instead of millions, you may only have thousands...but still, it's too many.  Please don't even think of traveling on a German autobahn at the front or back end of these holidays...just don't torture yourself like that or even your family.

-Try not to leave on a Friday or come back on a Sunday or vice versa.  Try to stagger your own holiday if you can and leave during the week, the closer you can to Wednesday is best.  I realize some vacation rentals are not set up for that, so find another one that is.

-Consider leaving in the middle of the night.  Believe it or not, there really is less traffic at those times.

-Check Staumeldungen with up-to-the minute traffic updates.  Keep your German radio on.  You will hear some God awful airhorn noise through the radio every hour on the hour, which actually will interrupt a CD or even cassette tape you are playing (at least in a German car) and give you the latest stau information via a person quickly running through all the German staus of note (for that radio station's region).  Many times, this person will talk incredibly fast for English speakers, but listen to key cities and also the autobahn designations, such as A8, A81 or the like...they won't say North or South like I blogged about before, but they will tell you which direction by signifying a city direction.  So they'll say "A8 Richtung Stuttgart" which means on the A8 Autobahn going North if you haven't hit Stuttgart yet, as the A8 comes from the direction of Munich....they'll even tell you how long the stau is and sometimes you'll hear the word "zwischen" which means between or "Kreuzung" which means a crossing of one autobahn over another...listen to what cities or towns they mention...those are the exits.  It may take some practice, but you'll get the hang of it.  

-If you have a smartphone, then download the Stau Mobil App, which is free.  You'll see what's going on without having to wait for anyone to tell you.  

-AFN radio also tries to mention the major ones when they hear about them, plus I think they encourage their listeners to call in.  Of course if you have a GPS that handles gridlock for you, by all means use it and its bypass recommendations.  ADAC Magazine also mentions that the majority of the time, you are better of staying on the autobahn rather than leaving it...unless it's a really bad one, such as after an accident that closes down all lanes...sometimes in both directions!

If you are an ADAC member, you can look for ADAC yellow marked vehicles....the autobahn angels I call them.  I've seen them pull all kinds of spare parts out of their hatches!  Did you know they also have fun stuff for kids, food and water too for ADAC members?  If you are really stuck, don't hesitate to call them if you have ADAC roadside asssistance, even if it is to request any of these routine-sounding items.  You are paying for the service.

Do you have any tips you'd like to share about avoiding staus and also how to deal with one when you're in it?  Honestly, I have great memories of a pick-up frisbee game on a stau to Austria many years ago...I think we were at a standstill for about four hours, but I got to know my fellow stau companions and had a great time while we dealt with the delay.  If that would happen today, with all the hurry up and wait we do these days, I don't know if I could handle that.  It ended up being a rockslide, and thankfully no one was hurt.  Let's hear your stories!

Bringing your iphone (or android) to Europe

It was inevitable.  Either you are pegged to go on a business trip somewhere in Europe, moving overseas or will be taking a little vacation across the big pond.  I've gotten a bit of mail from folks asking if they should bring their iphone or not and what pitfalls there might be.  First, you might want to read my general article on cell phones overseas in Europe.  There are quite a few differences from being stateside.  The biggest being that we use SIM cards over here, so if your iphone is CDMA technology, you are hosed...partly....although you should still be able to use it in the wi-fi mode, along with any ipod touch you may bring along.  Note to self, in today's global economy, don't bother getting a CDMA cell phone as the Americans are the only major players still using it!  Here are some things on making the transition smooth with your iphone when coming over here.

Check with your provider and find out what the roaming charges are.  If you are only coming over for awhile, then you'll keep your cell phone plan at home....literally.  Most providers have outrageous international roaming charges, but to do your due diligence, just find out what they are.  We've all heard about the lady with the almost $40,000 roaming cell phone charge and don't want to be in her shoes!

• Make sure you TURN OFF the roaming feature before you even begin your journey and get on that plane!  Even if you don't use the phone, you may be still charged data fees (which are higher) when your apps decide to do their updating and background work.
• The next step would be to put it in "Airplane Mode" and only switch that off when you plan to use it.  It's an extra safety net.  It will basically turn your iphone into an itouch and allow you to use any nearby wi-fi networks.
• Turn "Fetch New Data" OFF in all your apps.  You also don't want your email and contacts to constantly try to sync.  To turn off the Auto-Check functionality tap on Settings, then Fetch New Data, change Push to “OFF” and Select to Fetch Manually.
• You might want to reset your Usage Tracker to Zero tap on Settings.  Then General, Usage and then Reset.  This way, you'll be able to track your exact usage.

If for some reason, let's say you are coming from the UK and your carrier has some kind of partnership or lower roaming fees with a certain provider on the mainland, turn off the automatic feature setting when searching for a Carrier, under your iphone Settings Menu.  That way, if there are multiple carriers operating in an area, you can choose which one you want to connect to.

Make sure you have the Free Wi-fi finder app on your iphone and also have the offline database already uploaded on your iphone ahead of time, so you can check it out offline.  It doesn't list all the free wi-fi hotspots in Europe but many of them are there.  More keep getting added from folks like me who discover free wi-fi in our travels.  Also know that many coffee shops, parks in Paris, hotel lobbies and other public places have free wi-fi.  I don't know if it's standard Europe-wide but every McDonald's I've been in has free wi-fi.  Don't discount hospitals and other public buildings either.  I even went to a comedy show in Amsterdam, Boom Chicago...granted, the free wi-fi was for us to use Facebook and Twitter as we were waiting for the show to start...and during the show to make fun of some guy's Facebook page they had singled out of the audience, but hey, I could still check my stuff while I was in there!  I've even found free wi-fi in some stores, especially bookstores.

Most of the US bases or posts, even the NATO bases have wi-fi hotspots. All over Germany, in a pinch, I've paid the $5 for access at the onpost foodcourts, which is good for one week typically at that price (credit card needed).  Many of the USOs will have free wi-fi.  Be sure you note which communities have them (not all do unfortunately).  Here in SHAPE, Belgium you'll find free wi-fi at the SHAPE Library, the Rendezvous Cafe next to the GB Shopping Center and also at the SHAPE Club.  Be sure to also look online at locations you'll be visiting and see if you can locate any that way.  As long as the wi-fi is free, you can use your iphone or itouch for free at those hotspots.  Now what if you want more options when it comes to wi-fi?


There is an alternative out there if you strictly want to use your iphone with wi-fi...ANYWHERE in Europe..anywhere with cell phone tower access that is.  Even if your phone is still locked, you should be able to use it in wi-fi mode.  There's a little device you can rent, and if you are over here for a longer period, it will pay for itself many times over!  It's called Tep Pocket Wifi and provides wireless internet wherever you go.   They can even deliver it to your hotel or wherever you'll be on the mainland.  It works just like a wi-fi hotspot, but it's personal and fits in your pocket. Not only can you use it with your smartphone but also with your laptop and tablet PC.  Up to five devices can share the hotspot and you get reliable 3G coverage where available.  Who said Europe was backwards when it comes to technology?  Hey, we've got the high speed Germans who like to be at or near the forefront, so you know we are going to have good options.

Be sure to download the app TextPlus.  This app will give you a free stateside phone number where you will be able to send and receive FREE text messages.  With the free version, you can send up to 20 free texts a day.  If you want to send more or would like to do group texts (oh that sounds dirty doesn't it?) where you can send one text out to multiple people, then upgrade for around a dollar or so to the Silver or Gold version.  Please remember that many of the apps I'm mentioning are available in the android market too!

When I first bought my iphone, second-hand mind you...I used it for an entire week just via wi-fi while I waited for my SIM card to arrive.  One great thing about being around soldiers...a lot of soldiers have been looking to upgrade to the iphone 4, so want to get rid of their 3s...I can see the same thing happening when the next version comes out....so, if you are near a barracks or some soldiers, get the word out that you have QUICK CASH for their used iphones!

Now, if you are coming over here for a longer time period and would like to use the cell phone part of your iphone or handy as it's called over here, you're going to need it to be unlocked.  If you are under contract in the US with a carrier there, they are obligated by law to unlock your phone at the two year mark.  It's funny, but most cell phones over here, to include the iphone are sold UNLOCKED.  We don't have all these issues of AT&T and other carriers hogging all the prime cell phones and iphones.  We are also a few years ahead of the US in general with cell phone technology.  Why that is, I just don't know.  Maybe one of you can explain it to me, cause I'd sure like to know...it's been that way ever since I can remember...the newest models always come to Europe first...then the US...hmmmmm.

Anyway, SIM cards are sold like candy over here.  You can find them at most electronic stores, bookstores and even convenience stores.  Many of us over here don't have cell phone plans but buy minutes as we need them.  Cell phone plans tend to be a lot more expensive over here and are hard to get out of.  The average European will have whatever cell phone, which they bought unlocked and then buy the SIM card w/minutes separately.  I have SIM cards for every European country I typically travel to (along with their in country cell phone numbers).  Again, you can only exercise this option if your cell phone is UNLOCKED!

I've noticed in Germany, not all carriers reach all towns for some reason, so I always recommend people check their new area as well as what carrier their spouse might have for their military issued cell phone.  Many military units have iphones and blackberries they give to their key leaders.  If you use your own personal cell phone, most folks will then add minutes online through their carrier or buy the little tickets at the checkout.  These tickets will give them a code on their store receipt, which they then punch into their cell phone to reflect the new purchased amount.  You have a whole year to use up those purchased minutes.  These minutes cover voice and text messaging.  Many will even let you upload minutes thru Paypal or your local bank account too.

Now for those who want a bit more, then buy a SIM card through a carrier that offers it with data....usually 2 GB limit per month.  Here in Belgium, I use Mobile Vikings.  How do you know you went over your data limit?  Just by a gentle reminder.  Like everything here in Belgium, things are slow and not taken too seriously.  The only catch with this is that voice calls are more expensive than usual.  In that case, I mostly end up text messaging and using the data portion.  It offers roaming throughout the continent, but since those fees are a bit higher (even when receiving calls which are typically free with options, not data), I end up using my supercheap prepaid regular phone for use outside of Belgium for my voice calls.  Now, I still access free wi-fi on my iphone where available and end up carrying both with me on my travels.  Or, I'll just switch out the SIM card for an in-country one....I hope that makes sense!

If you will be in Germany at least 30 days and want a SIM card (and its respective German cell phone number) that will handle data and the use of your smartphone, check out FYVE and Smartmobil where you can get these services without a contract.  You will need a German address for these choices though and will need an UNLOCKED device.

If you have extra money to throw away and the thought of purchasing a SIM card in a foreign country scares you....or maybe you are one of those people who likes to travel but have everything set in place before you go, then go with Smart Free to purchase a European SIM card.  It's expensive, I'm not going to lie...more than I would pay, but again, it gives peace of mind BEFORE you leave.  That's why I am mentioning it here!  I've also known a few business people who were happy with Telestial.




One more thing...there is one more option for you if you like to fly by the seat of your pants...okay, so the other end of the spectrum then!  As long as you are tech savvy or know someone who is, then this is for you!  I've found yet again, that there are many soldiers out there who have mastered the art of jailbreaking iphones, and just getting the word out that you have one that you want jailbroken, can really free up your choices in Europe if your phone is NOT unlocked.  To indulge in all these goodies, your iphone has to be both UNLOCKED and JAILBROKEN.  Read this article here for the how-to on using your iphone in Europe after the jailbreaking process.

So now what?  Well, there are a whole lot of apps that can be a huge help in your travels throughout Europe.  But, since I'm done for today, I will end here and blog more about those choices later!

People still calculate in non-Euro currency over here

This just cracks me up...but then again, I'm an American not schooled in such things (even though I sometimes say I am German if it benefits me...hey, I'm half right, cause I'm half German)....anyway...so I bought this book about Paris in our local Troc.com, an awesome second-hand store which I blogged about before.  They sometimes have cool old books, but this was a new one.  Okay so this is not about the book.  It's about the receipt.  Yes, the receipt.  You see, everything looks nice and orderly, and in fact, just like an American receipt (except in French), until you get to the very bottom.

The entry I circled in the pic says "484,08 BEF".  So what the heck is that?  Well, if you can believe it or not...it is close to a decade that the Euro currency was brought to Belgium and people still calculate what the thing will cost in Belgian Francs, the previous currency.  That's right.  Especially the older generation.  They absolutely want to know what that thing is worth in Belgian Francs before they buy it, whether it's a book, a piece of furniture or a sack of vegetables.  Nevermind that we haven't had the Belgian Franc in nine years to value it against other world currencies.  It is forever stuck in la-la land.

And before you laugh...the Germans do it too.  In fact, right after the German Deutschmark changed over to Euros, you could still walk into stores and see two price signs and tags.  The Deutschmark price and the Euro price.  Of course you could only pay in Euros but people still wanted to know.  My grandpa, rest his soul cause he had already lost one fortune when the Reichsmark went to the Deutschmark and thought it would happen again....even he continued to do it until his dying day about 12 years ago.  I suspect my aunt still does it too although never out loud these days.

So next time you get your receipt in Europe, take a look at the bottom and see if you can find the old currency.  You just might see it there and impress your friends with this fairly useless bit of knowledge!

Video: Navigating a Volksmarch (what is it and how do I do one?)

I think my husband holds the record for the most volksmarches in our family...he's done hundreds of events and well over 2,000 kilometers...and that's being conservative.  So what is this volksmarch?  And why can it be so important to you?

Well let me tell you.  I'll explain it all below.  At the end, I've written some tips out in plain English.  If the video moves a bit too fast at that point (I tried to slow it down), pausing it should allow you to read what I wrote at the very end.  Lots of resources and websites to get you started in this great and relaxing sport too!  Come join me as I walk through a forest and the streets and farmpaths of a small town in Belgium.

Podcast #8 - Visiting Fairytale Neuschwanstein Castle (5/28/2011)

Okay, stay with me here....someone gave me an idea to talk about visiting a variety of sites around Europe.  You know how when you go somewhere...and then come home...you say to yourself....I wish I had known that before we went....or, you spent too much money or whatever....I'm going to try to make trip planning EASY for you.  If you've never been or want to know more about a location, then listen to one of these podcasts.

Today I'm going to be talking about Neuschwanstein, probably one of the most visited sites in Germany and the inspiration of Disney's Sleeping Beauty castle.  Listen in on Podcast #8 to learn more.

Of course, since this is my first podcast on visiting a site, I forgot to mention a few things, plus let me expand on a few more!

Photography or videotaping is not allowed at all in either Hohenschwangau or Neuschwanstein castle.  Every time I go there, some foreigner (never seen a German do it) will either take photos openly, acting like they didn't hear the guide or will sneak photos.  In my opinion, this is just disrespectful.  Buy the interior postcards and follow the rules.  Again, just my advice and in the end, do what you are comfortable with.

The other two King Ludwig castles nearby I mentioned are Linderhof, which is between Garmisch and Neuschwantstein.  This is a wonderful castle to visit and just the gardens alone are fantastic.  Kids also love the Grotto (which is man-made by the way but looks just like a real one).  The other castle most folks have never heard of.  It is called King's House on the Schachen, and is King Ludwig's former hunting lodge.  It can only be reached by about a three hour hike and most visitors overnight there at the nearby lodge.  It is a great experience I highly recommend!

>If you have the time, a few years ago, I also wrote a blogpost on Neuschwanstein, so check that out too!  If anyone else has any tips to share on visiting any of the King Ludwig castles, please post here.  We'd love to hear them!

Feeling the History in Bastogne, Belgium

This post is in honor and remembrance of the fallen.  Please take the time to check out commemorative events in your area to pay your respects and give thanks!

The birds were singing beautifully, and they knew it.  As we observed a moment of silence for the fallen men of the 17th Airborne in WWII, I wished they were here to listen to the sounds too.  This was going to be our first WWII commemorative walk.  Apparently, there are quite a few, the largest in Belgium being the big event in Bastogne held every December.  This particular march, only in its third season, was to remember those who fought so bravely during the Battle of the Bulge with the 17th Airborne, 101st Division.

The mayor of the town of Flamierge, which lies only 20 min from Bastogne, stepped up to thank the Americans for saving the town, and as I scanned the crowd of hikers, walkers, a few families with children and the large number of WWII re-enactors I realized that before the march was over, the men who had fought here were going to leave a mark on all of our lives.  The guest of honor was a veteran of this battle, Robert Patterson, who right before the march, signed autographs like a rockstar and then did a pass and review of the re-enactors; inspecting weapons, uniforms, shaking hands and patting the men on their backs.  Even though I could see he was getting tired, he posed endlessly with anyone who asked and was very gracious and kind to anyone who spoke to him.  A grandson of a veteran, also a US Army soldier, was in attendance.  

After the solemn ceremony and the wreath laying, we lined up for the march.  We were given a sheet of the unit history, a bio of Robert Patterson and a map with our route clearly marked.  Anyone could sign up for the march ahead of time and pay the 5 euro per person fee.  This is what we did via Belgian bank draft.  We also noticed that many participants showed up on site and paid then.  We could go either 6 or 16 km. The fee covered organizer costs, a completion certificate and a drink.

The march started off quickly, as everyone was anxious to get started, especially the three dogs who were pulling at their leashes.  As we settled into a rhythm, the two columns started to spread out and everyone seemed to enjoy the rare Belgian sunshine and blueskies.  We passed by farmers' fields and old stone homes that must have been here during the battle and were showing their age.  As we turned the first corner (and marker) and headed uphill, some of our lot started to slow down, but that was okay.  We had two Army medic re-enactors bringing up the rear.  It was amazing to see the authenticity of the uniforms and equipment and the great care that was put into the details.  One three-man team even carried a 30 caliber machine gun with its tripod and barrel - a real team effort.  There was also a re-enactor who was a military photographer as it said on his helmet, looking the part with his high speed camera.  I personally liked the family of five, fully dressed the part including a different weapon for each person in the family.  This was serious business.

After the walk and feeling exhilarated, we spoke with some of the other walkers.  There was an American family of four that was also stationed in Europe.  I believe we were one of only a few Americans present this year.  Mostly, I talked to French and Belgian families who felt it was important to never forget what the Americans did.  I was humbled when an older man came over wanting to shake my hand and to thank me and my country for what we did for them that day.  In a reflective mood, and with our certificates in hand, we decided to visit some of the other military highlights in the Bastogne area.  

To highlight the ones you absolutely should not miss, read on.  As you travel through nearby Bastogne, you can already see Mardassone Monument, rising out of the trees on the eastside of town.  Standing on top of this five-pointed granite monument, listing all the Allied units that fought, as well as all the US states listed across the top, you have an absolutely expansive view of the town of Bastogne below.  This is the closest the Germans would ever come to capturing the town.  There is also the Bastogne Historical Center right next door, but keep in mind it is closed for the next year and a half for renovations sorry to say.  You can visit the special exhibit "I was 20 in 45" in town if you have time or follow this route below.

Using a map or GPS, follow the small road from the Mardassone monument East towards Bizory.  Once you get to this small hamlet, turn West towards Foy.  About halfway between the two, on this one lane road, slow down.  Right after you cross the bikepath, you will see a monument on the left side of the road, commemorating Easy Company, 506th Infantry Regiment (from "Band of Brothers" fame) and all those who died from the unit during the Battle of the Bulge.  One soldier listed was killed afterwards, but since there is no commemorative plaque, he was included in this one.  This used to be a railroad line and railstop and was a major part of Easy Company's fight.  Continue on towards Foy.  You'll see a forest road off to your left with an open area in front of the trees, probably full of mud.  Stop here and walk into the woods on the westside of the forest road.  Those depressions you see in the earth under the trees are Easy Company's foxholes, or what is left of them after time and scavengers have gotten ahold of them.  You get a real sense of emotion standing in one of these holes and reflecting on the quiet-as-a-church forest with its carpet of pine needles.  

As you drive on towards Foy, you'll see some buildings with pockmarks and bullet holes, and you will swear that nothing here has changed.  This was also a major engagement for Easy Company.  Cross the N30 towards Recogne and turn on the first road to your right.  You'll immediately see the marker that shows where the Allies buried our fallen heroes from the Battle of the Bulge.  

They have all since been relocated to other cemeteries now, but the site is still sacred.  If you go down the road towards Recogne and the interesting bison farm there, you'll see a German military cemetery to your left.  Be sure to stop and take a look.  

Since we absolutely wanted to see more, to include memorabilia and items from the battle to make our visit complete, we traveled the 20 minutes cross-country on forest roads to the wonderful town of La Roche-en-Ardenne, which sits down in a valley, surrounded by cliffs with a river running through it.  There is even an imposing 9th century fortress overlooking the quaint storybook buildings that were all but destroyed by the end of the war.  

Stop at the Battle of the Ardennes Museum which has three floors of wonderful dioramas of both Allied and German soldiers, vehicles and all their belongings tastefully and thoughtfully presented.  Especially popular are the metal artifacts dug up from the battlefield, from both armies, as well as a room filled with weapons and the hard-to-find German Enigma code machine.

Coming home that evening, we certainly had a new insight into the battle and also enjoyed some of the what the Ardennes Region has to offer, only a short two hour drive from SHAPE.  If you like the outdoors and want to experience history beyond the dusty pages of a book, then these commemorative marches  and the Ardennes are for you!  The Stars & Stripes will frequently list these events, as well as the veterans' association pages of the units who fought there.

Confessions of a European Hotelroom

I don't think I'll ever forget this one customer I had once....who had an absolute FIT when he went to his room and saw his double bed....woe is me did I get a tongue lashing...the front desk too!  Before you blow a few steam valves or just get surprised, check these things out.

The bed or should I say double bed.  If you stay at an American branded chain like Marriott or Hilton (more money), you'll typically see queen sized beds...there are even a few kings to be found.  Otherwise, you are looking at two twins pushed together with a crack down the middle.  In fact, you let your hotel know if it's two singles or a couple, and they will pull them apart or push them together.  It's a European thing, so don't fight it and accept it.

Sink in room.  Many of the older style hotel rooms will have a sink in the room rather than in the bathroom.  You'll even find some houses that still have the sink in the bedrooms...it's just different.  So go do your thing in the toilet located in the "water closet" (WC) and then come out and wash your hands or brush your teeth.

Smaller rooms.  Most newer construction has smaller rooms.  Check out the Tune Hotel chain (from the Far East), with their first hotel in London....can you say shoebox?  Let's see if it catches on.

Continental breakfast.  Look, most hotels will not have big American buffets or even English or Irish breakfasts....but if they do, they will advertise it!  I've seen "continental" mean anything from a day old roll w/some butter, jelly and coffee....to nicer spreads with fresh breads & rolls, meats, cheeses, fruits, sausage links and hardboiled eggs.  Some of these hotels you can find on Trip Advisor, so be sure to see what they say....or read the description carefully or just ask.  Most hotels serve something in between what I mentioned.  Always check to see if breakfast is included.  Many times it is not.

What the heck is a bidet?  It sort of looks like a toilet and it IS in the bathroom.  Many Americans think it is for feet washing...and it can be...but really, it for washing your...how should I say....privates....get refreshed without having to take a shower.  Believe it or not, not all Europeans bathe or shower every day...or even use deodorant.  Get used to it and move on and wash yourself in the bidet if you are so inclined.

Porn channels. No, there are no blocks and you might come back to your little ones surfing the porn channels.  You don't get charged til you've been on one for a certain amount of time....so conceivably, your little ones could be very slick and just surf from one porn channel to another.  The Europeans are more "free" with body image and looking at nakedness.  You'll see kids running around naked at the community swimming pool or watering hole...sometimes women topless...even tv shows during prime time and commercials show the occasional winky or boob.  It's just not a big deal over here.

No AC.  Honestly, it's going to be pretty rare to see a hotel with it...although more seem to be getting it.  Even some of the nicer ones don't have it.  Germany is not known for hot summers...but ask any American living overseas, and they'll tell you otherwise!

Elevators.  Not many to be found in the smaller hotels.  It is not unusual to walk up three flights of stairs to get to your room....travel light!  Small hotels will also use every available space, so don't be surprised if you are on the top floor, under the eaves and having to duck down to get to your bed.

No top sheet.  Europeans sleep with duvets.  I use these at home cause I hate tucking in sheets.  Of course Marriott and some of the others will have duvets AND top sheets!

No internet.  More and more hotels are trying to catch up with offering this.  Many who do offer it will only offer it in the lobby...some wifi signals just won't get to the top floors or through some of the thick walls if it's supposedly hotel-wide.  Try to find your hotel on Tripadvisor to find out.

A different level of customer service.  Or maybe I should just say different.... period.  Many times Americans want to call Europeans rude (and don't get me wrong, there are some rude people over here) but being ignored at the desk and not being asked 20x if you need anything or is everything okay is mostly the norm here.

Parking can be an issue.  When I book a hotel, knowing I'm driving there, I always check out their parking situation.  If it's too expensive for our tastes, I'll look elsewhere nearby for public parking.  I do this all online before we go...I calculate it into our room cost, cause who wants a cheap room and then have to pay out the wazoo for parking?  Some of the garages may also have trouble accomondating big American cars, so we usually travel with our second little zip-zip Eurocar.

 Bathroom/toilet down the hall or strangely located.  Check that price for that hotel room.  Some of the smaller hotels and hostels will have one or the other down the hall...to share with other hotel guests.  If you've ever shared a toilet with a guy...and you are a girl...at least for me...that is just NOT going to happen with anyone but my husband.  I recently learned what a "hero dump" was and never want to repeat that experience again!  Please also remember that hostels and B&Bs nowadays sometimes DO have the facilities in the room...read carefully or ask!  What do I mean by strangely located?  We once stayed in this wonderful old villa in Berlin....the landlady had lived there since before the war...the place was full of Persian carpets and beautiful furniture....wonderful high ceilings and a mezzanine...our room....great, except for the one piece shower that was two steps from one side of the bed...it looked so out of place, and I tripped over it more than once on the way to the toilet at night, which was down the hall.

Thankfully, over the years traveling throughout Europe, I've grown my collection of nice hotel rooms, B&Bs and hostels.  But, I am always up for adventure, so always comparison-shop on my two favorite sites, booking.com and hostelworld.com.  I love that they both have honest reviews and that only people who have stayed at those hotels can write up a review.  Don't take one review at face value but try to read a few of them to paint an overall picture.  For the reviews not in English, use Google Translate to get the gist of the message, especially if it's a negative one.

All in all, you are going to experience some amazing hotels and their owners and learn a few tricks and tips along the way.  You may even stay in some dives and dumps and have some great pics to show for it!  If you'd like to share any of your gems with my fellow readers, please post them below!  You know me and funny stories/photos....would love to hear/see those too!

These people took NO BAGGAGE on their 90 day trip around the world!

I've blogged before about my favorite vest but check out this couple who went around the world without a single piece of luggage....nothing...nothing at all!

It's interesting to listen to what they have to say about their experience and some tips to help the rest of us in keeping from overpacking!  If you want to check out all the different pants, short, shirts, jackets, coats and even hats and underwear with multiple pockets and secret places to squirrel away your stuff, be sure to check here!

Visiting Bruges, Belgium

I thought I would share a few tips about visiting Bruges, Belgium, one of the top tourist highlights in Belgium.  Even people outside of Belgium have heard of this beautiful almost untouched Flemish city.  Okay, so wait, in Dutch/Flemish your going to call it Brugge.  Yeah, simple right...the French say it one way, the Flemish another...easy when it sounds and looks almost the same.  Try that with the city we live in, known as Mons in French and Bergen for the Flemish.  It always cracks me up that as soon as you cross the border from Wallonia (French) to Flanders (Flemish), even the billboard governmental highway signs...exact same drunk driving photo or "be careful driving" graphic, immediately have a different language as soon as you cross over.  But I am getting WAY off topic today.  I wanted to share a few easy tips in getting to and getting around this top favorite of mine!

If you're coming from the direction of the SHAPE NATO base near Mons, it'll only take you about 1-1/2 hours, pretty much all highway driving....yes, bumpy....that's Belgium, so watch the potholes and construction.  At this time in April 2011, they were still building that monumental traffic circle right before you hit the city, which caused traffic to back up onto the highway to a standstill.  Please try to arrive at least before 10 on the weekdays and by 9 on the weekends or you will have missed the chance for smooth sailing.  I always take the first turn off that traffic circle into the city....easier to get to the trainstation, which is where we are going.  Watch the video below for tips on where to park for dirt cheap AND how to get free roundtrip bus tickets for everyone in your car.  Now of course, I can't stop you from buying all the neat chocolates, beer and lace....but I can at least save you some in the transportation department.


I'm going to caution you to not go on high peak travel times...Spring and Fall are best, but if you MUST go in the summer, go ahead and go on the weekdays.  The city is just PACKED with tons of tourists on the weekends, and they come from all over, not just Belgium and the surrounding area.  While I was there on a weekend before Easter, I saw tons of river cruise tourist folks walking around....interesting.

I can recommend:

• Just walking around the city center.  There are some cute shops, albeit touristy, but nice things to windowshop.  There are also so many historic buildings, and who ever saw so many buildings dressed in gold except maybe in Istanbul?
• Checking out all the canals.  They make their way in rings around the city....reminds me a lot of Strasbourg, not so much like Venice....very nice.
• Chocostory.  This was a great kid thing.  The story itself wasn't that exciting, except I did enjoy the 18th century hot chocolate pots and appreciated that women were hired just to make hot chocolate for the nobility...it was a noble drink and not for the masses til much later.  The best part is of course sampling the stuff after watching the test kitchen chocolatier explaining what he was doing step-by-step when he made some beautiful and tasty chocolates with hazelnut center.....perfectly understandable in French, English and Dutch.  The best part is that the place smelled of chocolate...not only from the kitchen but also from the larger-than-life chocolate statues adorning the halls....mmmmmm.  Kids gave it a thumbs up.
• Going up in the belfry.  But only if you are not cheap like me.  I had to ask someone else about the view...it's 200+ steps, which would've been okay, but I wasn't paying 5 euro for that, but I encourage you to.  I bet there is  a nice view.
• Lace shops.  Just be careful.  85% of the stuff is Made in China, and the good shopkeepers will tell you which ones...but by the time you hit your second lace shop, you'll know yourself by looking at the price.  If you're not paying 30 euro for a hankie, then it's not genuine Belgian lace.  I'm not knocking the prices....an unGodly amount of hours goes into each piece, so if you were to pay that lacemaker per hour, your are getting her (or him) dirt cheap at that 30 euros.
• Sitting in a Cafe in the mainsquare.  My favorite part....and everyone seems to love those chocolate cubes you get on a stick and then stick it in your hot milk to make chocolate....another mmmmm.  Try to go at an off hour...not at lunch time, and I like the snack place down the side from the old post office...on the end....cheap but good fries and excellent view.
• the City Tour folks.  It's a little bit like a hop on hop off bus but not quite.  It is a large colorful van that makes a circuit in 50 minutes and stops at all the major points...great if you don't or can't walk the distance.  It's priced right also at 14,50 euro for adults and 8,50 euro for kids.
• Favored goodie store.  My husband, the beer expert, almost died when he walked into 2be shop with their 780 types of Belgian beer mind you in their cellar, along with every chocolate, goodie and everything else you can stick in your mouth!

Now why did I not recommend one of the many boatrides?  Cause all it takes is one look at those low-in-the-water overloaded boats where they pack you in like sardines....nope, not for me....it's also cooler and I have a better view sitting on the stone railings.  There is also a french fry museum and a diamond museum that has one demonstration a day around noon.  If your time is limited skip all that.  Diamond museums and demonstrations are a better deal in Amsterdam and Atnwerp...the grandmother and grandfather of them all.

You'll find many guidebooks out there about Bruges.  But Bruges will be bundled together most likely with Brussels and possibly Antwerp.  That's okay....it's hard to fill an entire guidebook with it.  We mostly get done what we want to get done in a half day and then leisurely drive back to Mons with the car packed of chocolates and beer.  If you want to stay, please find something outside the city limits.  Bruges is a prized Flemish possession and the prices to stay overnight inside the city reflect that.  There are PLENTY of nice B&Bs outside the city.....in fact, you are only 20 km or so from the coast at this point, so if you are planning to stay overnight, how about finding something in between Bruges and the coast?  Again, use my favorite lodging planners hostelworld and booking.

Oh, last tip.  My husband always likes to buy beers from pretty much everywhere we go in Europe.  You'll see beer in half the tourist stores in the city and then some.  Take your time on the way home and plug the nearest grocery store into your GPS, as you get away from the city center.  That's where you should buy your beer (and even chocolates, as long as they are not gourmet) from the local grocery store where the locals buy their stuff.  Oh, and the beer labes?  He is working on a huge collection of beer labels, plus he just likes to drink beer.  At a later point, or maybe when we start the project, I'll have to say what we are going to do with those labels....it'll be a fun reminder of our latest European tour I'm sure.

If you have any tips to share on this wonderful city, please be my guest below!

Ask VMW: Uggghh...help with jetlag overseas!

Can you share what you do to get adjusted to time changes below?  I received not one but THREE questions last week addressing jet lag.  I'll share what I do, and then it would be great if my readers shared what they did:-)

"I am pulling my hair out!  I have a 10 year old, a 6 year old and a cat.  The kids are driving me crazy, waking up at night and not getting rest.  I dread every night since we moved to Germany.  How do you handle jet lag??

Ohhh...those time changes and jet lag....you get a taste of what flight attendants go through but worse if you have kids in tow!  Going from West to East is always the worst, as you are going backwards in time.  Most planes arriving in Germany from the West arrive early in the morning between 0600 and 0800...and then you have your whole day ahead of you, fighting the sleep monster.  Your best bet, once you get to your final destination (which usually involves a busride, a car ride where hopefully your sponsor picked you up, or even a train ride) is to STAY AWAKE until early afternoon.  I do this by staying outdoors....walking around to get familiarized....even if it is just on post....fight the urge to go lie down in the bed and "rest" cause in seconds you will be sound asleep and definitely snoring from your exhaustion.  Once you have been up and eaten some lunch, take a 2-3 hour nap at most.  Set your alarm to wake yourself up!  If you let yourself sleep until you wake up naturally, you'll wake up right before bedtime and then fight the vicious cycle for the next few weeks of waking up in the middle of the night...often..., not being able to get yourself to sleep and just generally being in a bad mood from lack of proper sleep.

If you do it this way, you may have only one or two restless nights as opposed to weeks of it!  As for your children, that's a bit harder to control.  Let them take a nap as soon as they fall asleep but don't let them sleep all day.  Take them out to a playground or to the foodcourt play area if it's not nice weather....eat a bunch of small meals and snacks rather than big ones.  Make sure you have a bedtime routine at the usual bedtime, and if they do wake up at night...you can sit with them but make it absolutely BORING and keep lights off and interaction low....this can be difficult but a few nights of difficulty will make many weeks of blissful nighttime sleeping!  Resist the urge to be a nightowl or let them go wild!  As for the cat, if he's like ours, he's nocturnal and will figure it out.  I've actually kept our cat awake during the day by waking him up when he takes his little catnaps...and then playing with him.  That helped us.  Oh, and welcome to Germany!

What's the deal with the European shopping carts?

Ever notice how nice and orderly a European parking lot is when it come to their carts?  Find out why that is!

You mean I'm in the WRONG Frankfurt??????

The townhall of the "other" Frankfurt

I am only telling this story because it has happened to at least two of my friends and it is worth mentioning, because not only were they terribly embarrassed...they lost a lot of money when they missed their flight and were in the wrong city. How could this happen you wonder?  It helps to explain how the Germans name their towns and cities.

You know how in the US, you might have a Springfield in Ohio and another one in Virginia and so on?  The Simpsons TV family is always making jokes as to where the actual Springfield from the show is located.  We usually don't get confused when someone mentions Portland or Richmond or Arlington, because we typically say the name of the city and then the state...so there is absolutely no doubt.

Well, Germany is split up into "Laender" or lands...kind of their version of states, but they don't say Stuttgart, Baden-Wuerttemberg...in fact, since Germany is barely over 100 years old, they didn't even have that as an option back then when you had all these dukes and princes with their own little territories.  So, how did a person know exactly which city they were referring to?

Simple....the Germans attach the name of the river that goes through the town to distinguish it from another town with the same name and a different river going through it.  Back to our story.....I had a friend taking a plane out of Frankfurt.  Hey everyone knows Frankfurt, right?  Well....most Americans are familiar with Frankfurt am Main...that's the Frankfurt on the Main River.  That's where we had the big American airbase and where MOST flights arrive internationally.  Now Ryanair flies out of Frankfurt, but they fly out of Frankfurt-Hahn.  Now it's not named after a river, but I want to point out my friend drove to Frankfurt am Main to try to catch her plane, when she should've driven to Frankfurt-Hahn...Ryanair has a way of naming the two-bit airports they fly out of after major airports "nearby"...in this case, I think over 100 kilometers away!  Obviously, she missed her flight and her vacation.  So why did I mention this?  Because she also could've driven to Frankfurt an der Oder....which is in the former East Germany on the Oder River.  So you see, look carefully at the town name....we see it here in Belgium too, although they don't use rivers a lot of the time but regions, such as La Roche-en-Ardenne, showing this particular town lies in the Ardennes Region of Belgium.

Are you confused?  I hope not.  I just want you to be sure and look carefully at any itineraries, hotel reservations and tickets before you head out that way or really, before you even book it.  It could save you some money and disappointment.  Do you have any stories to share?

The European way of giving directions

You know how you can be anywhere on the East Coast in the US, and say "go South on I95" and depending on where you are when they say that, you know exactly which way you are going and pretty much when you will get there?    There are also those familiar red, white and blue I95 signs that even glow in the dark...guiding you along the way, North or South.  Try that in Europe, and you'll be eternally confused as route markers change as much as you change your mind.  Ask someone where to get to route this-and-that going South, and you'll get hit with a blank stare.  You see, they give directions here totally differently.  Here's some enlightenment along those lines.

Way back when people didn't travel much and pretty much stayed around their villages, they would get infrequent visitors passing through who knew they needed to follow a goatpath or semblance of a road...but al ot of times didn't know which direction.  So, they would ask which way.  The villager would point and respond to take THIS road in the direction of Paris....cause he knew that this trade route eventually got to Paris, and this is the way everyone went to get there.

Nowadays, it's the exact same thing.  Even here in Mons, Belgium, if I want to tell someone how to go to the Mons Mall, I say get on the autoroute (our version of the highway) towards Paris and take the second exit.  There is no North, South or anything else...and everyone knows what you are talking about.  If I want to go to Cologne, I'll say go on the autoroute towards Brussels and after Charleroi, head towards Aachen.

How's that for a trial by fire in European geography?  It's like this in every European country.  You'd better know which cities lie in which direction and don't worry about the cardinal directions.  You won't use them here!  And when you get out into the sticks into some of these small villages, I hope you are familiar with the larger towns around them.  Yes, you've got your GPS, but the GPS sometimes takes you on some other-than-worldly goatpaths that sometimes end in dead ends or are so narrow, you can stick your hand out one side window and the other and span the entire width of the road.  I won't even talk about the 6 foot roadway ditches and farm machinery you see at every turn.

As a small caveat, I think I know where we got our US route and highway system from, as some areas in northern Europe and England WILL have major autoroutes clearly marked.  But, that is not how the majority rolls over here.  Be sure to study your maps and memorize which big cities lie where in Europe!  If anyone has any driving stories to share that involve directions, I would love to hear them!

First Impressions of Dublin & Ireland

You always hear people talking about wanting to make a trip to lovely, green Ireland...especially Americans...something about going back to the homeland.  About 10% of American men can claim Irish ancestry...little less for women.  Anyway, I have no Irish ancestors that I know of....mostly German and "other".  No one ever guesses, so I keep them guessing for fun...you too.  But I am SO off topic.  So, I book the tickets thru Ryanair, cause I just can't resist those cheap seats.  And from that point on, after people ask me where we're going, and I say Dublin..they say, "oh, Dublin is ugly.  Nothing to see there."  How's that for encouragement?  Of course, I don't listen as always and go about my merry way, researching and dutifully putting an itinerary together for my family.

Well, I am back.  We were there a week before the craziness of St Paddy's Day.  We are back happy, refreshed and wanting to see more.  Here's what I have to say about what we saw and did.

• They don't do Pounds in Ireland, even though it is next to the UK.  If you didn't see this, you may be as confused as I was.  Come prepared for Euros.  I almost planned for the wrong thing.  Many Irish sites online will have things priced in Pounds, and now I realize they do this because their big market is the UK...not because their currency is in Pounds!
• They drive on the "wrong" side of the road...of course I knew that...but the hardest part for me was not driving but the looking RIGHT before crossing the busy streets!
• I was happy I had my vest and found myself taking many more pictures than ever before.
• Found out that Dublin=Guinness and vice versa, and there isn't one without the other.
• Kids loved the FREE Paddywagon day tour which came with our apartment rental in the Temple Bar District (center of the action).   I found it and it's review on Hostelworld of course!  There were no gimmicks, just pure fun and learning and not only historical stuff but one of our favorite things to do, to scout out movie locations.  In this case, we saw scenery from "Braveheart" and "PS I Love You", as well as a few others within Dublin (even in Kilmainham Jail).
• Speaking of the jail, it is a MUST see, and if you MUST bypass some of the cheesy tourist stuff to get there, then do it.  Learn what the connection is with Abraham Lincoln and our American history too.
• I learned (cause I had forgotten) that potatoes don't come from Ireland.
• Maybe cause it was before the holiday, but I believe I saw some leprechauns, and I could've sworn that TONS of people (not just tourists) were wearing kelly green!  In fact, I read some article while I was there that said that leprechauns were being paid up to 1,000 euros A DAY to come and be a pub fixture.
• As always, I recommend the hop on/hop off bus...either company has the same price and similar schedules...this can take up a whole day of hopping on and off and visiting some of your favorite sites (because you can't get to all of them I'm going to tell you right now).  The companies' tickets are also good for TWO days instead of the usual one day you see in most European cities (or 24 hours).
• Dublin has some of the CLEANEST European streets I've EVER seen.  Not because us tourists and locals are clean, especially in March.  It's because they have a HUGE army of automated street sweepers and people cleaning the streets and sidewalks at all hours.  On the morning we left, as the sun was coming up, we saw some broken bottles and random trash but that was about it!  I think I only saw one pile of doggy crap the entire time...highly unusual for Europe!
• The Irish are some of the proudest and friendliest people I have EVER met over here.  I felt totally safe, although I never ventured to the Northside (opposite of most cities, as most have the Southside as being the rougher side).  This is why Colin Farrell likes to say he comes from the Northside to bolster his bad-boy image (and you thought he came from the Southside didn't you?).
• Loved that the National Museum of Ireland is free.  It was worth it, but I had a nightmare of the bogmen (yes, they were dug up) in the Archeology Museum.  The architecture of the building itself was impressive, and you gotta like the Viking stuff there too...did you know Dublin was founded by Vikings?  If you have Viking fever, the company that dug up one of the earliest Viking settlements around, set up its own exhibit, so check that out (I guess they had to do something to keep on building, huh?).
• Go to pubs for food (cheaper) and get away from Temple Bar area for shopping, pubs and food (again, cheaper).
• Check out the iWalk Tours on Dublin Tourist Bureau's website...they have about 12 of them in all parts of town.  Follow along in their guide as you listen to the podcast. My favorites are of course the Guinness Walk and the walk with the Georgian doors.  I think I took photos of about 20 different Georgian doors.
• Speaking of Georgian, don't miss the House #29.  If you want to see what a rich family lived like in this era, stop here.  Too bad there wasn't a slum to view to see how the other 97% lived in those times.
• Kids were ecstatic to be coming to an English speaking place with English bookstores.  Yes, the Eason's chain is the biggest in Ireland I think, but we loved Chapters, cause the entire top floor was ALL second hand books. We had to beat feet before we spent an entire day in there!
• Kids and hubby flipped over an all-you-can-eat Indian/Italian/Chinese place for 7,95 euro a plate....yes, there is such a thing and yes, you'll find it in Dublin on the corner of Henry Place and Moore Lane near O'Connell Street.  There is also a nice foodmarket in that area...actually there are markets all over the city on the weekends.  You can find some other cheap eats here.  There is a famous Paddyjack sandwich I read about here and here (also info on the markets), but by the time we got there in the late afternoon, he just had horsemeat left and was selling them as Paddyjack on a spit and not a sandwich!
• Do bring your raingear.  It rained/drizzled the entire time we were there, plus it was windy!  Wait, we did have sun for a few hours when we were out in the countryside and Kilkenny, but it was brief.
• I regretted not seeing the ocean, or should I say Irish Sea.  It's not like you can walk down along the river and see it.  It's quite a distance from downtown Dublin and the actual port area is ugly with big container buildings and crane, but there is bus service out to Howth Cliffs.  There are hiking trails and beautiful ocean views to see....sigh.

Now that we've gotten a taste of what Dublin has to offer, we would love to go back and spend some quality time in the countryside.  We only got a day's taste of that which only makes us want to come back for another trip!  The Irish countryside is just beautiful, and we drove miles before we would see another car at one point.  Even in winter, we got a real sense of the green and beautiful landscape.  Of course, I promised the kids we'd get to Scotland before we go back up North....so many destinations and so little time!  If you are on your way to a European tour, let me suggest you start sooner rather than later to visit all these wonderful locations!

Reading between the lines...

I'm a big fan of reading travel reviews.  I read them on airlines, hotels, destinations, cruise ships...let's see...even destinations within a destination, such as major tourist attractions.  I'd read one on myself if I could...might make me a better person.  Funny, you get some that are just about as negative as you can get....then you get the ones that are so glowing, it makes you wonder if someone's grandmother wrote it about their own place.  Then you get the fluff in between.  Here are some recent reviews I've read and my own translation of what they really meant.


For a hotel:

• Centrally located and in the middle of all the action.  Noisy and you won't get any sleep if you are a light sleeper.  There will also probably be college age drunk kids running around.
• Close to public transportation.  The buses/trams run REALLY early...and late, and you'll hear every one of them, as they go by.
• Staff doesn't intrude and is seen only when called.  You'll be hard pressed to get maid service or a late night snack.  I've actually wandered the halls of such a place, looking for someone who could find me an extra blanket...yes, it was late, but there was a night desk and no one to be found.  I never did figure that one out.
• Quaint farm B&B.  You'd better have a car, because it'll be close to absolutely nothing.  If you don't mind bugs, cats howling as they hump each other all night and cows and roosters playing alarm clock, then this won't bother you at all.  We recently stayed at a B&B, that had all of the above.

On the beach: 

• Invigorating surf.  Yeah...invigorating it was all right....as the riptides tried to carry us out to sea.  We ended up playing it safe on the sand.  Research what kind of beach area it really is.  With kids, I just like having lifeguards nearby too...interesting thing in Europe, you are mostly held responsible for your own kids' safety while in water.  You will find many hotels without any kind of lifeguards as well.  Know before you go.

Airlines:

• No frills or fuss and efficient.  This was about Ryanair....and they weren't lying either.  This basically means bare bones.  Let the nickel and diming begin!
• Friendly and knowledgeable.  Have you ever had a tourguide who gave you a headache?  Knowing everything about everything is great, but you have to balance the talking with just letting the people drink in the scenery.  He was also overbearing to the point that I would run the other way if he headed my way during our rest breaks.  His wearing of the lederhosen also scared the children and for some reason formulated some disturbing images in my mind...maybe it was his knobby legs and not the lederhosen...per se...I digress.

Rental Cars:

• Super fuel-efficient.  That and the size of a shoebox.  Tall people need not apply.  Even the kids had to stuff themselves into the backseat.  Always know the model make and name beforehand...specifically.  There is a reason why that shiny rental car you saw on the website is so cheap...."objects on screen are smaller than they appear" or something to that effect.
   
Other: 

• Wonderful back-to-nature hike with a mountaintop picnic with champagne and all the hearty offerings.  Well, once we hiked up the big hill, not mountain, we did get champagne, but also day old bread with some old stinky cheese, bubbly water and when we weren't swatting the little bugs (or eating them), we did take some fascinating photos.  Take note that a European picnic lunch is not what we envision as an American picnic lunch.....always have plenty of water (the still kind if you so desire), and if you don't do the European thing and drink fizzy water like 99% of them do, write that down again for future reference.  It's also good to have snacks along if you are not going to indulge yourself in the local sausage, pate or whatever.
 

What about you?  Do you have any reviews to share?